SS20 saw a huge variety of trends adorning the catwalks globally. I've decided to focus in of the trend 'Exuberant Structure' and below I discuss what this trend means to me both in fashion and the wider fashion landscape.
SS20 saw a huge variety of striking collection adorn the catwalk with probably the most memorable trend being extravagance, from everything from print to silhouette, fabric to location the must have look is ‘more’.
In a trend report from WWD Milan was said to be one of the best fashion weeks this season for this trend, with “voluminous sleeves, delicate painterly layers, ruffles, pleats you name it Milan saw it.”
With clear influence from historical costume, designers such as Molly Goddard, Versace, Lorenzo Serafini, Marni and many more have the strong silhouettes from past times commanding attention and stealing the focus on the runway.
A running theme from the catwalk is the 80’s inspired power pose. Bold shapes with impressive silhouettes made for stand out garments in the 80’s giving women a feeling of power and control.
‘ Fashion loves an overindulgent queen.’
Going back even further to Marie Antoinette (1755-1793) known for her ‘lavish, over-the-top fashions.’, the Elizabethans and Tudors, women clothes were eccentric and exaggerated to create silhouettes that couldn’t be ignored, these clothes were made to be seen. With structures such as boning, ruffs, corsets and peticoats, and exuberant details in the many layers of fabrics, bows and the prints on the fabrics themselves as well as the pure volume of fabric. ‘Skirts as wide as they are tall paired with towering hairstyles, all draped in jewels and pearls.’ As a fashion icon of her time ‘if Marie wore a style, the rest of court - and the Western world - followed suit.’ At the time, ‘every highborn lady’s ambition was to impress the court with her clothing.’ ‘Maybe we are evolving our own aristocratic age, with extreme clothing and fantasies for a knowing few.’ - Cathy Horyn.
As the years have past clothing has become more simplistic, more practical; after the two world wars womenswear and menswear were variations of a similar style and what was once seen as everyday attire is now only seen on the stage.
The world of music, theatre and fashion are all closely linked, with icons such as Lady Gaga and Madonna crossing all these disciplinaires to create a unforgettable visual identity of being a diva.
Perhaps the most memorably extravagant costumes of mainstream artists is ABBA. Rising to fame with their win in Eurovision their iconic velvet frills are instantly recognisable in a time of lycra, neon, raves and rebellion.
In my opinion exuberance isn’t just a style, but an attitude. It’s the quirkiness of being empowered, comfortable and confidence in who you are, what you like like, what you stand for. It’s everything this year’s Met Gala stood for, camp extravagance, overindulgent expression and individuality.
Digitally today, we live in a very ‘extra’ world with filters and apps changing your appearance, taking a standard photo and embellishing it.
In our surroundings, the world is forever changing, with design capabilities developing the structures creates are becoming much more individual especially in the business hubs of the world, buildings are being created to be remembered not only for what takes place inside, but for it’s exterior too.
Finally the natural world is full of both macro and micro structures individually evolved to suit their own unique purpose. Perhaps some of the most complex on the earth are naturally formed and continue to adapt to their bespoke environment.
St.
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