This week I tackled my first written analysis and it was disecting a Nick Knight photograph of Craig Green's AW15 collection.
Nick Knight has created a square photograph of two full body figures captured in movement from directly in front of them. They are wearing all-in-one overalls of contrasting colours red and black. On top of this the suits are adorned with decorative ribbons and the figures are holding structural frames of light, freely moving fabric of each colour. The gender of the figures is unknown due to the positioning of their bodies and the placement of the fabric. All captured on a completely blank, plain white backdrop and with specifically no shadow or angle of light, the figures and fabric look as if they are in mid air.
The stark white backdrop also allows for no distractions, with the viewer’s sole focus to be on the figures and their movement, and taking away any sense of depth and space within the image.
The image, having been created to display a Craig Green AW15 collection, is clear that the clothing is very structured, very practical and ready to wear. This also defines the models as male and the overall utilitarian nature of the garments emphasises strength. Captured in motion the figures are almost intertwined, yet also appearing to be breaking away in a motion perhaps found in dance or martial arts. The idea of both combat and dance figures moving both together and against each other.
Visually the ribbons almost frame the figures surrounding them, yet emphasising the motion at the same time. The flow of the fabrics and sense of freedom remind me of the painter Jackson Pollock’s work. His “action painting” specifically ‘Number 14’ - 1951, has such strong contrast between the black and white marks with a loose sense of freedom and individuality. Each mark is made through movement, similar to the way in which the fabric is captured in this image. Visually there are also some clear links to ink; how it bleeds and spreads, almost like an explosion of tiny splatters. The moment in which the image was captured the fabrics appear to be both tangled and apart, almost as if they were a single form combined. Overall the effect has a very painterly quality to it, due to the fluidity and freedom as well as the
excessive flowing fabrics.
“RED, THE COLOUR OF DESIRE, BLACK, THE COLOUR OF DISPAIR”
In my opinion this image is a clear representation of conflict; as a fight, struggle or confusion of power, emotion or opinion. I instinctively linked this image to the musical Les Miserables and the revolution. I instantly saw the photos as a representation of the barricade. The
anger of war, but also a physical struggle between what is displayed as black and red. In the production there is a song at a crucial moment, when they are about to join the revolution. The red and black banners represent anarcho-communism and anarcho-syndicalism. A red flag was one of the first anarchist symbols, used widely in the late nineteenth century, where as the black flag is displayed due to the contrast and lack of colour unlike most national flags. The black flag represented defiance, the opposite to the white flag meaning surrender. The way in which the set designers created such a strong visual, not only through colour symbolism but props, silhouettes and structure, is replicated in Knight’s image. His is in a strong but softer way, more symbolic and rhythmical; via movement as well
as colour and fabric.
This led me to thinking more about whether it could be a fight between emotions. Could the red represent love, and the black represent hate? Or perhaps it’s closer than these polar opposites, and the red means anger, and black means hate, fighting with and against each other. Alternatively, linking to the idea of war, the red could represent blood, and therefore pain, and black meaning death for a darker symbolic meaning.
Looking at the time the photo was taken, it could be symbolising a conflict of opinion. Black and red could be representing a highly debated leave or remain argument in the Brexit discussions; with David Cameron having just been re-elected, and the manifestos beginning to be publicised, it was a conversation that the globe was listening to intently.
In some way or another Knight has created a very thought-provoking image; with infinite possible symbolic meanings, to me the focus is on conflict and colour. In my opinion the photograph represents strength and struggle in grace and anger.
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